Started the day with birding at dawn yet again, then breakfast and I made my way back to Sandakan. On the way I stopped at the Gomantong caves for a bit of birding and a walk about the caves. The caves are famous for the Edible-Nest Swiftlets nest harvest. These nests are worth a fortune in Chinese dining establishments as the key ingredient in Birds-Nest soup. The cave is typical of Southeast Asia Limestone caves but instead of Bats these Swiftlets take up every conceivable nook and cranny for their nests. Going in the cave is an adventure and a serious assault to the senses, The wooden boardwalks that run along the edge of the caves are are soaking, rotted, and very slippery, especially when you add the bird dung and literally thousands of 1 1/2 inch long cockroaches scurrying underfoot. Don't stop walking..... ever. The center of the cave is meters deep in bird guano and is swarming with cockroaches as well. If I was a bird nest gatherer I would always be requesting the highest areas to harvest. That way if I fell I would likely die quickly from the fall rather than drown in bird crap and cockroaches. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gomantong_Caves
There was troop of red leaf monkeys at the edge of the reserve, I was not prepared for photographs as the air conditioning of the car caused my lenses to fog badly when I stepped out into the high humidity. Funny, I learned that lesson years ago but occasionally still need to have it drilled in. If you are a photographer, DON'T USE AIR CON IN THE JUNGLE.
When I reached Sanadakan I took a brief walk around a water village, built entirely above water. These villages are protected and enjoy reduced taxes but must be occupied by Sabah peoples. This rule of course has been pushed to the limit, actually passed the limit but hey, the right coin in the right hand. I went in to a house that was obviously inhabited by Chinese folks, selling pearls (ostensibly harvested locally) the place was fantastic the wood floors, walls, door jams etc were all teak or similar and these folks were not suffering at all.
The most significant issue I took with this place was their personal garbage dump was the balcony. Everything gets thrown into the water.
The village market was like almost every other equatorial market other than a noticeably cleaner fish market than the norm. The Yellowfin Tuna were all bright eyed and laying out on stainless steel tables, the vendors were constantly spraying them down. Quite impressive. The dried fish ... well dried fish stalls are just nasty and it really doesn't matter where you are.
I made a quick trip to the Buddhist temple above the city before heading to the Sepilok B&B. Very lavishly decorated, all by donation as well.
