Wednesday 9 November 2011

Paro Bhutan

Well before dawn we drove to Chela la - a high pass on the road to Haa. This was a clear morning and the sunrise and mountain views were awesome. We were up there specifically to try and spot three species of pheasant, the Himalayan Monal, http://www.arkive.org/himalayan-monal/lophophorus-impejanus/ the Blood Pheasant and the Kalij Pheasant. Of course there were several other high altitude species as well. It was not long before Kencho heard a Monal calling so we took off after it. Well I took off for about 50 m then was quickly reminded we were at 12,700 feet. After my heart stopped trying to blast its way out of my chest and my head stopped trying to implode I continued on at a more sustainable pace. Of course the Monal was not going to play nice and continued to thwart my efforts to circle around him to get a picture with the morning light properly highlighting this incredible bird. Finally after almost an hour of sneaking across this frozen mountainside, I have worked my way above him and about to take the money shot. Or not, off he flies just as I am pressing the shutter, I know this is anthropomorphic but that little ratbag was mocking me while calling his alarm as he was flying away.They best I could do was a silloutte picture, crappy as it is I post it here because dammitt I worked my keester off to get it. Oh well, sometimes you win....
We also saw the Kalij but no Blood Pheasant today. I was happy to see another Grosbeak species and few other LBB's ( little bron birds) so we climbed back up to the pass and had our picnic breakfast, the warm tea was nice, very nice.
Our itinerary was changed slightly from the one we agreed upon and subsequently we were scheduled to go to Tiger's Nest http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Paro_Taktsang in the afternoon once we were done on the pass. It is a three hour hike up to 10000 feet altitude. As Lynda was not yet acclimatized to altitude I felt it best to reschedule it for the last day so that we would be fresh. Honestly it had nothing to do with the the scouring around the moutainside I did while chasing after the Monal, why I was ready to jog up that trail...
 Instead we visited the Royal Museum, they had an amazing display of the  masks used in ritual dances and festivals dating back to the 6th century. There was also a room with pictures of the past and present Kings of Bhutan. Since the present King just married in September, the picture of he and his new bride have not been added yet.
We visited one of the oldest temples in Bhutan, Kichu Lakhang  a large Monastery where we were fortunate to observe a ritual ceremony by a group of Monks. They played century old clarinets, drums and cymbals, then chanted and prayer. very lucky to have seen this they are not held often.
I went out birding the river with Kencho late afternoon and spotted a couple rarer birds the Brown Dipper and Ibisbill.(pictures below).