The road inland from Tolaria the RN7 is an excellent highway
for the most part although somewhat narrow. There are occasional groups of potholes
that require navigation at lows speed but otherwise it is a significant upgrade
from the roads I have travelled thus far.
It is very difficult to rent a vehicle in Madagascar, most
often you simply arrange for a car and driver. It costs in the order of thirty
five dollars a day plus gas so it is very affordable and convenient provided
the vehicle is sound. My driver for this
trip is a young man named Jose (pronounced Josee) and the vehicle is a relatively
stalwart Peugeot 504 Wagon. He speaks no English but my French is improving
daily so allons-y
The highway rises up from sea level to a flatland plateau passing
through many small villages located around water sources such as wells and
small streams. For reasons generally
associated with livelihood, there are several small compounds with no water
sources that are inhabited by smaller family groups, often single families. For
these people life is a constant struggle. These compounds are composed of three
or four thatched huts (eight ft x eight
ft x eight ft) with a central shaded area for cooking and gathering. Water is brought
in by bicycles, Zebu cart or pushed in by hand cart every day. Often this is a journey
of ten km or more. It is an emotional experience watching children in tattered,
filth rags standing by the roadside begging for water, not money. On my return
trip I was much better prepared and travelled with a case of water bottles to
hand out.
Zombitse-Vohibasia National Park is relatively large (367 km2)
approximately 120km inland from Toliara. It is a transitional forest between
the dry and the humid forests of Madagascar. As a result it is home to several very
important species a few of which are not found anywhere else in Madagascar or
the world. I was lucky to photograph two of these; the rare Appert´s Greenbul and
the Standing´s Day Gecko.
Approaching this park is a grim reminder of the ravages of deforestation
in Madagascar. Zombitse-Vohibasia is now a completely isolated forest, the
entire area surrounding the park has been cleared to a stark and barren
semi-arid desert.
