Guy Witney Krocker: Isalo National Park

Isalo National Park (815 km²) is located in central southern Madagascar on a large plateau overlooked by the magnificent sandstone Isalo Massif. The park attracts hikers looking to traverse the intricate series of narrow sandstone canyons worn deep by weather and small streams.

Other than tourism the area’s primary source of income is in precious gems, primarily sapphires scoured from the long dried up stream beds. The small towns in this area well-guarded by local gendarme due to the aggregation of international gem traders from Arabia, Thailand etc. The buildings from which the gem traders ply their trade in are probably the best fortified and well-kept of any I have seen in Madagascar. A good indicator of the wealth centered in this area are the vehicles; Hummers, Rovers and Lexus all new and in pristine condition. I was going to inquire what the villagers were paid for the gems that they bring to the market but I was pretty sure it would just piss me off. Funny how things work, I did not see any well off local peoples in these villages at all. I don’t know how long the mind-boggling economic inequality of this area will last but I am sure it is not sustainable. They are going to need many more guns. Enough of that soapbox.

Wildlife is limited in this park and generally concentrated around several staggeringly beautiful oasis’s with luxurious plant growth, deep water pools and waterfalls. The highland plateaus between the canyons are exposed semi-arid desert and are blisteringly hot (38 degrees). It is a welcome sight indeed to see the trails beginning to descend into these lush green canyons where hikers can enjoy some shade and a cool dip in the pools.

The trails are excellent, clearly marked and well maintained. A large number of steps have been carved into the sandstone rock to aid hikers. Camping is well organized, fresh food and water is carried in by porters. It was great to get some km's under my boots.