Guy Witney Krocker

Friday, 7 November 2014

Masoala National Park

From Maroantsetra, it is a two hour trip by dhow across the bay to the Masoala Peninsula and my lodge for the next 6 days. Masoala National Park boasts 75% of all of the species found in Madagascar including many endemics seen only in this park.

My lodge’s location offers a fantastic variation of habitats all within walking distance. A Marine Park Reserve with coral reefs in fairly good condition begins directly in front of my bungalow, a small river and estuary navigable by pirogue (dugout canoe) runs beside the restaurant, a well-managed network of trails into the primary forest begins three km to the south past a fishing village well as an additional network of trails into secondary growth forest to the north beginning right beside the lodge.

My days in the park are full and are organized primarily to maximize the probability of wildlife spotting yet minimize heavy hiking during the heat of the day. It is hot enough at dawn J I am up for a hearty breakfast at five am and head into the primary forest trails to see what wildlife is about. It is a relatively constant climb over one km from the beach to the highlands so I am completely drenched in sweat within the first half hour.

One of the “must see” for birders in the area is the rare endemic, the Helmet Vanga. Not only did we sight one but were able to find a nest and watch them feeding their chicks. The pictures I was able to get are taken from distance to ensure we did not disturb the birds.

The other target for tourists is the beautiful Red Ruffed Lemur, although limited in number in this area, they are predictable in terms of range and feeding locations so sightings are common. They are very aloof however and mostly stay very high in the canopy. Good pictures are difficult to get due to distance and back-lighting. I have an excellent flash but it does not illuminate thirty meters away when contrasted against bright open sky.

I generally return to the lodge by noon for lunch and grab a brief siesta before heading out for a cooling afternoon of snorkeling among the rock formations and coral reefs. Very pleased with the species diversity of this marine reserve, I will be busy for a good while scouring my Fish ID texts when I get home. I easily identified at least 20 Families, several with multiple Genus of each. Without a doubt the fish bio Guy from my sordid past was tweaked back into life.

Although the Coral reef were extensively damaged by severe cyclones over the past few years there are pockets of very healthy formations as well as a wide assortment other invertebrates including sponges, Sea Stars, Sea Cucumbers and Urchins.

One giant bonus was seeing a Spotted Moray Eel at close range, sadly I did not have my camera on that snorkel and it was gone the next day…..

The late afternoon will usually include a trip into the river estuary on the pirogue searching for waders, Herons, Kingfishers etc, or hike along one of the trails through the secondary forest looking for White-fronted Brown Lemurs and chameleons etc.

A sunset there is of course, the mandatory “sundowner” refreshment enjoyed while watching the sun set across the bay.

Night walks begin at dark (six-ish) and usually last an hour and a half. It is forbidden to do night walks within the national park however the trails along the beach skirting the boundary give us the opportunity to see a good assortment of nocturnal animals including several Lemurs, Geckos, Owls and Amphibians.

During the night walks we slowly walk along the trails shining our flashlights through the underbrush and along tree branches. The nocturnal’s eyes shine back reflecting the light, they are usually transfixed by the light for a few moments providing a chance for clear identification and possibly a picture or two.

Madagascar Kingfisher (Alcedo vintsioides)

Henkel's Leaf-tailed Gecko (Uroplatus henkeli)

Long Horned Cricket (Orthoptera Ensifera) next to its recently shed skin

Madagascar Reed Frog (Heterixalus madagascariensis).

Madagascan Wagtail (Motacilla flaviventris)

Guibemantis pulcher (Mantidactylus pulcher)

Leaf-litter Tree Frog (Boophis madagascariensis)

Madagascar Giant Millipede (Narceus americanus)

Parson's chameleon (Calumma parsonii)

Helmet Vanga (Euryceros prevostii) feeding chicks

Helmet Vanga (Euryceros prevostii)

Red Ruffed Lemur (Varecia rubra)

Crested Drongo (Dicrurus forficatus) on nest

Red Ruffed Lemur (Varecia rubra)

Western White-lipped Treefrog (Boophis occidentalis)

Panther Chameleon (Furcifer pardalis)

Moth yet to be ID'd

Grandidier's Stream Frog (Mantidactylus Grandidieri)

Primary Rainforest

Saturday, 1 November 2014

Isalo National Park

Isalo National Park (815 km²) is located in central southern Madagascar on a large plateau overlooked by the magnificent sandstone Isalo Massif. The park attracts hikers looking to traverse the intricate series of narrow sandstone canyons worn deep by weather and small streams.

Other than tourism the area’s primary source of income is in precious gems, primarily sapphires scoured from the long dried up stream beds. The small towns in this area well-guarded by local gendarme due to the aggregation of international gem traders from Arabia, Thailand etc. The buildings from which the gem traders ply their trade in are probably the best fortified and well-kept of any I have seen in Madagascar. A good indicator of the wealth centered in this area are the vehicles; Hummers, Rovers and Lexus all new and in pristine condition. I was going to inquire what the villagers were paid for the gems that they bring to the market but I was pretty sure it would just piss me off. Funny how things work, I did not see any well off local peoples in these villages at all. I don’t know how long the mind-boggling economic inequality of this area will last but I am sure it is not sustainable. They are going to need many more guns. Enough of that soapbox.

Wildlife is limited in this park and generally concentrated around several staggeringly beautiful oasis’s with luxurious plant growth, deep water pools and waterfalls. The highland plateaus between the canyons are exposed semi-arid desert and are blisteringly hot (38 degrees). It is a welcome sight indeed to see the trails beginning to descend into these lush green canyons where hikers can enjoy some shade and a cool dip in the pools.

The trails are excellent, clearly marked and well maintained. A large number of steps have been carved into the sandstone rock to aid hikers. Camping is well organized, fresh food and water is carried in by porters. It was great to get some km's under my boots.

steps carved out of sandstone rock

Ring-tailed Lemur (Lemur catta)

Elephant's Foot Plant (Pachypodium rosulatum)

Comet Orchid (Aerangis mooreana)

Benson's Rock Thrush (Monticola sharpei bensoni)

carnivorous plant - Drosera madagascariensis

Friday, 31 October 2014

Zombitse-Vohibasia National Park

The road inland from Tolaria the RN7 is an excellent highway for the most part although somewhat narrow. There are occasional groups of potholes that require navigation at lows speed but otherwise it is a significant upgrade from the roads I have travelled thus far.

It is very difficult to rent a vehicle in Madagascar, most often you simply arrange for a car and driver. It costs in the order of thirty five dollars a day plus gas so it is very affordable and convenient provided the vehicle is sound. My driver for this trip is a young man named Jose (pronounced Josee) and the vehicle is a relatively stalwart Peugeot 504 Wagon. He speaks no English but my French is improving daily so allons-y

The highway rises up from sea level to a flatland plateau passing through many small villages located around water sources such as wells and small streams. For reasons generally associated with livelihood, there are several small compounds with no water sources that are inhabited by smaller family groups, often single families. For these people life is a constant struggle. These compounds are composed of three or four thatched huts (eight ft x eight ft x eight ft) with a central shaded area for cooking and gathering. Water is brought in by bicycles, Zebu cart or pushed in by hand cart every day. Often this is a journey of ten km or more. It is an emotional experience watching children in tattered, filth rags standing by the roadside begging for water, not money. On my return trip I was much better prepared and travelled with a case of water bottles to hand out.

Zombitse-Vohibasia National Park is relatively large (367 km²) approximately 120km inland from Toliara. It is a transitional forest between the dry and the humid forests of Madagascar. As a result it is home to several very important species a few of which are not found anywhere else in Madagascar or the world. I was lucky to photograph two of these; the rare Appert´s Greenbul and the Standing´s Day Gecko.

Approaching this park is a grim reminder of the ravages of deforestation in Madagascar. Zombitse-Vohibasia is now a completely isolated forest, the entire area surrounding the park has been cleared to a stark and barren semi-arid desert.

While hiking this amazing forest my thoughts drifted from the sheer joy and excitement of experiencing these rare plants and animals to being incredibly thankful that at least now some effort is being applied to the stewardship of this unique place.